Millerntor. It sounds like a location from the depths of a Tolkein novel. It is in fact the home of one of the world's most recognisable football clubs, a stones throw from the river Elbe in the industrial heart of Hamburg. It is home to a team that has become synonymous with punk, counter-culture, socially progressive ideals and of course, the Skull and Crossbones. They are FC St Pauli.